Ethiopian Kitchen: Stocking your Pantry.

Ethiopian cuisine is a huge array of complex flavours and textures.  Like Indian food, you can end up with 10 or 15 different spices in a single dish, and they all blend nicely into an aroma that is unmistakeably Ethiopian.  Much of the food is vegetarian, since the Orthodox Church in Ethiopian forbids meat on 200 or so days of the year.  The large, flat bread in the picture is injera, a staple of many meals, but there are many delicious yeast breads on the Ethiopian menu as well.

The picture to the right shows a simple meal of spiced buttermilk curds, gomen (stewed collard greens) and injera.  This is simple to make, but it does require you to have some basic things on hand that are used as a staple in Ethiopian cooking.  This post will help you get started with your Ethiopian pantry. 

Fermenting Teff flour for Injera

Injera is traditionally made with teff flour, which is a grass that grows on the highlands of East Africa. Teff is full of nutrients including high quality protein and calcium, and it is gluten free, provided you buy it from a source that doesn’t mill wheat on the same mill.  It is finer than wheat and when you mix it with water it looks almost chocolatey.  It also tastes different, and I have to admit I had to get used to the taste.  My teenage boys, on the other hand, gobbled it down the first time I served it.  These boys who won’t eat a grilled cheese sandwich or tuna casserole couldn’t get enough of the bread made from teff.  Go figure!

Teff used for injera is usually fermented for several days, and you can achieve this by mixing the flour with water, and adding a small amount of yeast.   Two cups of teff flour and two cups of water will make enough for about 4 large injera.  Leave it out on the counter in a covered container for a day or two, and it will get very bubbly.  If you leave it for more than two days you will need to feed the mixture or the yeast will die.  Give it equal amounts of flour and water, about 1/4 cup for each cup of mixture that you have.  This way you can keep your teff going for a long time, just like a classic sourdough batter.

If you don’t have teff and don’t want to bother fermenting your batter, here is a recipe for injera using wheat flour that hasn’t been fermented.  

When you have your batter, heat up a very large round skillet, either cast iron or non-stick.  Brush the skillet with some ghee or butter, and pour the batter to cover the skillet.  Start at the outside edges and work your way to the center of the skillet in concentric circles.  Tilt and shake the skillet to fill up any spaces.  When the bread is just dry on top and covered with bubbley holes, slide from the griddle onto a large platter.  Continue cooking rest of batter this same way.  You can place your food right on the injera, then break off bits and scoop up the food with them.  This bread acts as an edible serving dish and utensils!

You can get teff flour from Bobs Red Mill.

Niter Kebbeh, or Spiced Ghee

Niter Kebbeh is a staple of Ethiopian cuisine used to fry and saute foods and mixed with many dishes to give a unique, spicy and nutty flavour.  You will want to make a big batch of it and keep it in your fridge to have on hand.  It is basically just a clarified butter, such as is used in Indian cooking, simmered with a bunch of spices.

• 2 pounds butter
• 1 small onion, coarsely chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, peeled
• 1 inch piece ginger root, peeled and coarsely chopped
• 1 1/2 teaspoons turmeric
• 1/2 teaspoon cardamom
• 1 stick cinnamon
• 2 whole cloves
• 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
• 1/2 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
• 2 teaspoons basil

1. In a heavy saucepan melt butter completely over medium heat, being careful not to let it burn.  Increase heat and bring butter to a boil.  When surface begins to foam, add onion, garlic, ginger, turmeric, cardamom, clove and nutmeg.  Lower the heat as much as possible, and then simmer for about 4 minutes, uncovered.
2. At this point the butter should be clear, with solids at the bottom of the pan.  Scoop off any foam from the top of the butter.  Strain clear liquid several times through a cheesecloth or fine sieve.  Discard seasonings.  Pour in to a crock or jar and store in refrigerator (for a longer period) or at room temperature. 

Berbere

This spicy red pepper paste is used liberally in Ethiopian food.  You can also find berbere in a powdered form, which will keep longer, but either form can be used for most recipes.  This recipe makes about 2 cups of berbere.

• 1 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1/2 teaspoon cardamom
• 1/2 teaspoon coriander
• 1/2 teaspoon fenugreek
• 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
• 1/8 teaspoon cloves
• 1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1/8 teaspoon allspice
• 1 small onion, minced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tablespoons salt
• 3 tablespoons dry red wine
• 2 cups paprika
• 2 tablespoons ground red pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• 1 1/2 cups water
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1. Toast ginger, cardamom, coriander, fenugreek, nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon and allspice in a heavy skillet for one to two minutes, stirring constantly.  Remove from heat and let spices cool.
2. Combine toasted spices, onion, garlic, 1 tablespoon of salt and wine in a food processor, blender or a mortar and process into a smooth paste.
3. Combine paprika, red pepper, black pepper and remaining 1 tablespoon of salt in a heavy skillet.  Toast over low heat one minute, stirring constantly.
4. Stir water into skillet slowly.  Add the spice paste.  Cook, stirring vigorously, over low heat for about 10 minutes.
5. Store berbere in a jar or crock.  After it has cooled to room temperature, cover it with a thin layer of oil.  This oil will help preserve the spice, so it should be replenished after each use.  Refrigerate.

Next time in the Ethiopian kitchen, we’ll be ready to make the delicous buttermilk curds and gomen, or stewed collard greens, which are pictured above.  What is your favorite Ethiopian recipe?